Sunday, March 20, 2011

Ich liebe Berlin!





I'm interupting my musings about London to make an announcement: I love Berlin. My one night there completely blew me away. I started falling in love with it as soon as I got on the S-Bahn from Schonefeld airport and started heading into Mitte. The city was such a mix of elements that I love: both industrial and beautifully ornate buildings, gritty street art and graffiti, modern buildings next to old ones, bridges and rivers, train tracks and trams, primary colors, history, weird structures, greenery, pretzels, good coffee, nice people, artists, an alternative scene, and so much more. I could go on and on.



Pictures don't do it justice. You really just have to go there and see it in person. I wandered around from the afternoon into evening, and seeing it at dusk was just breathtaking. Mike called me as I walked a river, near an area with many museums. I couldn't help but gush about how wonderful it all was. The city didn't feel as crowded and frenzied as most capital cities. It's a city with a checkered past, that has experienced so much in the previous century, and has become a modern place with a discernible alternative side. When I think about the atrocities that happened there, the ideologies that surfaced, and the insjustices of the past, I have a hard time placing it all in the context of the amazing city I had the pleasure to visit. I am not sure if I making much sense here at all. I just feel completely captivated by the city and something about it just clicked with me.



I found my way to Tacheles first, and if it was the only place I got to see in Berlin, I would have been happy. It is a building area occupied by a community of artists. You can see their work, buy pieces, have a drink, and disappear for a while. I bought a necklace made of forks and wandered around in awe. I would love to be part of a community like this, forget industry.

From there I wandered towards Alexanderplatz and got to observe some amazing views. I love to get a bit lost and find wonderful things, and I couldn't help but do so in Berlin!







I got back on the train and found my hostel. I stayed at Plus Berlin, and it was really wonderful. Clean facilities, great staff, and a good value overall. Best of all, it was located only a short walk away from the East Side Gallery, which is the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin wall. The wall is covered with different artwork, and really is like a gallery.


I then crossed the Oberbaum bridge into the Kreuzberg area. I browsed in a few shops, then had a fitting dinner: a veggie burger and a beer!


I would love to have more time to explore this area during the day, as there were many interesting shops and restaurants. I found more wonderful street art. including these great pieces:



I didn't want to stay out too late, alone, so I went back to the hostel, bought a kinder bar, and went to bed. I woke up early the next morning to catch one more glimpse of the wall, and attempt to get to the airport on time.


I also bought some pretzels (er bretzels) for the journey. Berlin is like the Philly of Europe. Yes, I understand that pretzels were brought to Pennsylvania by German immigrants, but this sounds cooler.

I am determined to make it back to Berlin before I leave here in june. It really had an effect on me I can't quite put into words. It was just fantastic.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

London Loves



I have been lifted out of my melancholy fits by the fact that everyday, I love London more and more. The loneliness that plagued my nights still threatens to bother me, but I am having a great time and overcoming it. I'm listening to the Smiths and wondering how I got to be so lucky to have this opportunity.

The World Book night launch was wonderful! Authors and celebrities read excerpts from books, and there was plenty of free coffee to stave off the cold winds. The event was hosted by Graham Norton, and some of my favorite readers were Alan Bennett, Philip Pullman, and Nick Cave. I cheered quite loudly when Nick Cave came on stage, and was not surprised that he read an excerpt from Lolita by Nabokov. I had a great time, and I really felt like I was finally enjoying myself in London. Lucy was great company, and the whole day was the catalyst for my new look at my time here.

Claire arrived in London on saturday morning, and we found our way to Borough Market. We sampled so many delicious things, we didn't need to buy lunch! Highlights include cheese, cheese, preserves, cheese, granola, tea, and cheese. We then wandered around the area, along the Thames, and across Tower Bridge. Lorraine made a japanese feast for dinner, and we passed out quite early.

On sunday, Claire, my housemate Alice, and I went the the market on Brick lane at Truman Brewery. I really love the neighborhood, and despite the market crowds, we had a great time. We found my new favorite cafe, where I may have gone in on two separate occasions to have good coffee and enjoy the I-don't-give-a-shit-draw-on-the-wall ambiance with a side of Sonic Youth. We also got some beigels (not bagels) at Beigel Bake. There were a lot of local artists and vendors selling good vintage and baked goods galore. We ate in one of the food halls, where I was able to sink my teeth into one of the most delicious things I've had in a long time: vegetarian Okonomiyaki! If you've never had it, go now and find it, and good luck. I also bought about a thousand pears for 1 GBP. Claire insisted we stop by Speaker's Corner in Hyde park, where many people were ranting and raving, sadly mostly about Jesus.

The sun came out on monday and brought a bit of warmer air, so Claire and i hit Trafalgar square. We visited the National Gallery and the National portrait gallery, wandered around the neighborhood, and had tea in the crypt of St. martins-in-the-Fields. We sat in on half of Evensong at Westminster abbey. The men's choir sang in way that gave us shivers. I didn't want to stay for the whole service, but hearing the choir was pretty great.

A pilgrimage was made to Canterbury on tuesday. Lucy was hosting an event at Parrot Pub, Chatback Comedy, and we all piled into the car for a three hour drive. Claire and I handed out flyers and explored the city a bit, sneaking around Canterbury Cathedral and stealing rocks (that was me.) We ate dinner at the pub and shared a half-pint. I drank most of the Kentish ale. Dominator. The chef at the pub trained under Gordon Ramsay, and it showed in the food. We had a squash lasagna, which consisted of layers of squash, goat cheese, spinash, and balsalmic figs. And since it was Shrove/Fat tuesday/pancake day, we also shared a plate of crepes with sugar, lemon, cream, and ice cream. To say the meal was excellent is an understatement. The comedy show was great, and I nearly died laughing during the set of fellow American Robert Commiskey. It was a late night, since we didn't get back till after 2 AM, but a great night. I had to say goodbye to Claire, who was heading back to Philly. Having her here really helped kill the homesickness.

After not leaving the house yesterday, I decided to go out and catch a free movie at the South Bank center. The film was Marxism Today, by Phil Collins. It was an interesting film, presenting interviews with party members and teachers of marxism in the GDR and film footage. The film was followed with a recent lesson on Marxism by one of the women interviewed, and we watched it while sitting in school desks. I really enjoyed it, and I will need to research Phil Collins more. I browsed some of his photography books in the adjoining shop and was captivated. Afterwards, I went and got myself intentionally lost. I started at Picadilly circus, wandered into Chinatown, and after going to take some pictures of west end theaters, found myself in seven dials and Covent garden. I went to Neal's yard dairy and sampled some wonderful british cheeses. I want to go and live in the courtyard behind the Dairy and other shops, it was an almost magical place. I wandered a bit more, but eventually made my way home.

Each day, with every little adventure, I am falling in love with London. The next few weeks will be filled with excitement. I am going to Berlin on tuesday, only spending one night, but I am excited nonetheless. My classes start the following week, and my interview with Alexander McQueen for an internship is on the 22nd. I am nervous, excited, and ready to start!

Expect a picture post eventually, I promise I will get around to one.

Until then, here's Nick Cave, with Graham Norton in the background.

Friday, March 4, 2011

London Calling

I am sitting in my room, in a house, in London. The sun is out today, and it is shining through my window, but it is still cold. The train goes by, visible between the trees in the garden and beyond. Most of the trees are bare, but the grass everywhere is so green. It hasn't rained yet today, and I'm glad.

I am in London. I don't quite believe it myself.

I've been here for over a week now. I try to go out everyday and see something new. The first day was a jet lag day, so I wandered around the neighborhood and down the Killburn high road. Cailtin came to visit from France, so we spent the rest of the week traveling about. We went to the V&A, which is a wonderful museum. Then we wandered around Camden Town the next day, visiting the various markets and enjoying the sunny and somewhat warmer day. The next day we walked around and saw the London eye, Big Ben, Parliament, Buckingham palace (and we stumbled upon the changing of the guard), and Trafalgar square. We found our way onto Oxford street later that day, and window shopped in amazement. The next day was her last full day in London, so we went to brick lane for some indian food and walked along the Thames, crossing Tower Bridge a few times in the process. It was nice to have a friend there that first week, to help alleviate the stress and culture shock.

Yes, culture shock. Well, perhaps not completely. I think it's just shock in general. Shock of being in London, of realizing it will be my home for 3 months, of being away from everyone I know and love, of being so far from home, and of being on my own in a strange place. London is great, and I am enjoying myself, but I do feel lonely at times. I cried at some point everyday, excluding yesterday, when I just got a bit teary eyed. It'll get better, I know. I just need to remember that I am doing something that I've wanted to do for so long. I am in an amazing city, doing something most can only dream of. I've worked so hard to get to this point. So I am trying to just relax, settles in, and enjoy the ride.

The house I am living in is lovely. I am renting a room from a family: a couple and their two daughters. There are two other lodgers here as well. Breakfast and dinner is included in my rent, and my room is bigger than my room at home! We have dinner together, which is nice. It helps to have people around and to feel some security, since being so far from home can be a challenge. We banter and tease each other and enjoy each other's company, so it is a nice set up. I miss my family, but it is getting better.

This past week has been a series of highs and lows. The grey skies and cold weather have not helped my mood, but I still have gone out everyday. Monday was spent at the British museum, which was amazing. I geeked out over the Assyrian statues and reliefs, but I couldn't help myself. It was so cold and grey that I went straight home afterwards.
The next day I visited the Hunterian Museum, which is the Mutter museum of London. It was great, though I think I prefer the Mutter (except for the fact that the Hunterian is free.) I found my way back to the British museum afterward, and saw some of the collections I had missed the day before.
The sun came out a bit the following day, so I went to Green Park. I walked through the park, over to Buckingham palace, and sat on the ledge around the statue of Queen Victoria. I wrote a letter to my boyfriend, stared around me, and realized I was in London. It hits me every so often. Afterwards, I walked to Hyde Park, then down the road and into Harrods. The food hall was amazing! I didn't buy anything, but I marveled at the products, displays, and atmosphere. The candy section was like a scene from a movie, full of color and fantastical displays. The tea and coffee room was quite tempting, as was the counter selling macarons. I will have a macaron soon, since it has been awhile, and I am so close to Paris, so they must be good here. I went to a few other stores afterwards, since it was still quite cold outside, then made my way back home.
Yesterday it was freezing, but I was determined to visit the Spitalfields antique market. The vendors had some amazing things, and I had to restrain myself. First, because I can't spend too much or I won't be able to pay rent. second, because transporting some items home will be a challenge. So I restrained myself. I bought a small bound book of childrens poems with some great illustrations, and two illustration pages from a childrens book. I love illustrations, and older childrens books often have the best. I bought a gift for Sandra, and a gift for my father. It is a really old thing, like he requested, though older than he may expect. It is more of an artifact than an antique! I treated myself to a coffee and soup for lunch, since I hadn't packed anything and I was so cold after wandering outdoors.

The lows are after I return from my little adventures. I start to feel very lonely and disconnected from everyone, and I sit in my room, shivering and crying. Skype has made things easier, and at any given time I am chatting with my boyfriend, or Caitlin, or my parents, or my sister. I really don't know how I would survive without it. I love being here, but I feel so far away from everyone, and it's difficult. But I know it will get better.

Tonight I am going to the lanch of World Book day in Trafalgar square. There will be authors, performers (including Nick Cave and Rupert Everett) and others doing readings, and it is hosted by Graham Norton. I am going with Lucy, one of the daughters, since her mother is partkaing in world book day. You can read about it here:
http://www.timeout.com/london/books-poetry/event/217658/world-book-night-wbn-launch

I am quite excited! Tomorrow my friend Claire is visiting from the states, and we will enjoy ourselves around town. I am making a quick trip to Berlin from March 14-16, then classes start the next week. Time will be flying by!

Sorry for an all text post, but the next will include pictures and less rambling. Until then, cheers!